An Invitation to the Secret Season
My dearest travellers, welcome.
There is a little-known secret in the travel community, only known by those brave enough to exchange the summer’s blinding sunshine for winter’s soft, dreamlike charm. If you want to know the real heart of La Serenissima, if you want to experience Venice without the frantic throngs of holidayers and in its most elegant, sad dress, come, let me take you by the hand. Come to Venice in December. The first question everyone asks is: What is Venice like in December? It is magical.
As great travel writer Freya Stark stated, “Awakening quite alone in a strange town is one of the most agreeable sensations in the world.” But to awaken in Venice in December, with the canal mist curling around your window, and in place of the tourist clatter, there is the sound of silence? That’s a whole other kind of pleasure!
This isn’t Venice filled with impatient queues and shoulder-to-shoulder tourists watching; this is Venice filled with history, meditation, and authentic holiday cheer. I have walked these stone bridges, I have sipped the steaming vin brulè (mulled wine), I have witnessed the moonlight glistening off the dark waters, and I am here to tell you with total confidence, December is the time that Venice in December really belongs to the traveller. If you are interested in a Venice winter guide, this is the month to visit.
Venice in December: Festivals, Food, and Winter Magic
I: A Feast for the Senses: Culture & Cuisine
December is Venice is not about mad tourist business; it is about slow cultural absorption interrupted by moments of real warmth and great food.
The Gleam of Celebration
The main celebrations of the season occur in the week before Christmas in Venice and on New Year’s Eve. But the celebratory vibe falls over the entire month. Christmas lights shine with soft magic in the main squares and the huge campi (small squares).
A highlight is the Christmas Market at Campo Santo Stefano. This is one of the best Venice Christmas Markets. Here, you can stroll around wooden stalls selling real Venetian arts and crafts, beautiful, lightweight glass ornaments from Murano, fine leather items, and local delicacies. It’s a great spot to warm up with a hot stall of spicy Vin Brulè and buy some thoughtful gifts that are really unique. There’s a lovely kind of stillness at these markets; the buzz is replaced by quiet, happy chatter.
For the music lovers, December has an impressive calendar of musical events. The city’s beautiful old churches and the fabulous La Fenice Opera House host world-class concerts of classical music. The experience of hearing The Four Seasons by Vivaldi, actually performed live at a gorgeous, centuries-old venue, is utterly sublime and fits in with the quiet, reflective mood of the season.
The Comfort of Winter Dishes
It is the season for authentic Venetian comfort food. The cold air calls for something hearty and tasty, and the local trattorie rise to the occasion. Skip the pricey freezer pizzas at the tourist traps. In December, you want food that warms you from the inside out.
I highly recommend losing yourself in the delight of Bigoli in Salsa, a thick, whole-wheat spaghetti with a sauce made of anchovies and onion; it seems simple, but is very flavourful. Or, try the creamy but perfectly-balanced Risotto al Radicchio with the slightly bitter purple radicchio from Treviso.
To get a feel for true local life, you should spend an evening hopping from bacari, Venetian wine bars. These are quaint and dimly lit spots where locals come to drink local wine (called ombra) and eat small snacks known as cichéti (chee-keh-tee). This is about as real Venetian social life as you’ll get, and it’s warm and sheltered from the cold outdoors.
And if you want a truly unique dining experience, allow me to recommend a little place. After a couple of meals at ‘tourist traps’, I came upon La Caravella. Eating here felt like stepping into an elegant drawing room of an era gone by. The kitchen prepares delicious seafood and homemade traditional dishes served with impeccable graciousness. Sure, it’s possibly a splurge; however, it is one of those experiences that has a reward that makes cold-weather travel worth the journey, with flavour and warmth! Experiencing the authentic tastes of Venice in December is truly a treat, and knowing what to wear in Italy in December is key to enjoying these evenings out. To discover even more flavours of the region, you may enjoy exploring our guide to Venice’s most hypnotising cuisines
II: The Lagun’s Misty Embrace
The Gift of Solitude
After hearing for years about how crowded and claustrophobic Venice feels during high season, the mass of people, and the hour-long wait to cross a bridge, I was nervous about returning. My last visit seems like a long time ago, and I felt so hurried. But in December, everything slows down.
Experiencing the wonder and depth of standing in the Piazza San Marco, the living room of Europe, and enjoying it beautifully quiet is profound and genuinely moving. Where once was a sea of bodies, there is now space. Space to gaze at the exciting façade of Saint Mark’s Basilica, space to listen to the orchestras at the caffès, space to marvel at the sparkling golden mosaics without a hundred camera lenses blocking your way. This is no small thing, this solitude of the off-season; this is the gift of the discerning traveller in December. So, when people ask, What is Venice like in December? Tell them it’s serene and quiet. This makes visiting Venice in winter a unique pleasure. For more inspiration on how to spend your time here, you might enjoy our list of things to do in Venice.
The Amazing Weather
The air in December is cool, invigorating, damp, and crisp. Yes, temperatures are somewhere between 3°C and 8°C (around 37°F – 46°F), so you will want to wear layers. A proper British coat, a scarf and a hat are recommended, but it is the dampness, the famous Venetian fog (nebbia), that makes the magic. This confirms the typical Venice weather in December.
Picture this: you wake up really early and leave your hotel to see the misty Grand Canal in a soft, pearly white cloak. The palazzi appear to just float in the air, separate from the water, their colour dulled and beautiful. The old city appears ghostly and maze-like, inviting you to get lost and explore, which you should. That feeling of mystery gives virtually every calle (narrow street) the potential for being on a movie set, as if you are wandering through some secret passage that only you and a couple of locals know about.
Some advice for my fellow travellers: you may encounter the famous, or perhaps infamous, Acqua Alta (high water). Don’t worry! It is more of a charming inconvenience than a disaster. The city does a wonderful job of laying down elevated wooden walkways (passerelle), and armed with a dependable pair of waterproof boots (an absolute necessity!), you can dash through St Mark’s Square and cheerfully splash like a five-year-old. Before heading out, check the tide forecasts and alerts from the Tide Forecast Centre so you know whether raised walkways will be in place and which routes are affected. This experience of Venice in December, once again, is only something summer visitors can dream about here in Venice.
III: The Peaceful Canals and Hidden Places
There are no crowds, and you will be able to fully experience the most romantic and iconic parts of Venice, as well as discover its secret, peaceful core.
Gondolas in Isolation
In the summer, a gondola ride can feel like being in a hot, busy traffic jam with not-so-mellow voices. In December? Pure magic! The canals are quiet. You glide through the smaller canals covered in a well-worn wool blanket (you can ask for one!), hearing only the sound of the water rippling against the hull and perhaps your gondolier’s low voice.
The charm is even heightened by the light snowfall; the hidden city is revealed in beautiful, quiet glimpses as you pass by. It’s intimate, romantic, and simply unforgettable! It’s the closest thing to being transported back in time to the city’s more decadent past. The city hosts some wonderful Venice winter festivals around this time. If you’d like an even deeper look at Venice’s gentler, lesser-known corners, our feature on a hidden side of Venice offers a lovely companion read.
The Artful Heart of Dorsoduro
Even if St Mark’s Square is perfectly quiet, you should cross the Grand Canal and explore the Dorsoduro area, the artistic, bohemian heart of Venice, home to the University and innumerable smaller artisan studios. The Peggy Guggenheim Collection, located in a stunning 18th-century palazzo, is worth your visit. Just think of meandering the sculpture garden and staring at works by Picasso and Dalí without any of the pushing and shoving (even in December, the garden was hardly crowded). The stillness and respect of winter light make art shine differently. What is Venice like in December for an art lover? Absolutely perfect.
Even better, head to Zattere, a long, relaxed walk along Dorsoduro’s southern edge that looks out across the Giudecca Canal. In December, it is my favourite part of Venice. Get a cioccolata calda (very thick hot chocolate) and enjoy strolling, watching the workaday boats go by, and soaking up the peace.
Here, the sunsets are often dramatic and painterly as the low sun in winter casts long, golden shadows on the water.
A Day Trip to the Painted Islands
The nearby islands of Murano and Burano also get a lot of bang for their buck in the off-season. A short ride on the vaporetto (water bus) is all that stands between you and these historic islands.
In Murano, you can spend time looking at the famous glass-blowers’ work in their steamy workshop, while having the chance to marvel at their incredible skill without being rushed away with a large group of tour guides.
Burano is a happy splash of colour, especially with the brightly painted fishermen’s houses, against the winter sky. The bright colours of fuchsia, emerald and canary yellow really pop against the muted blue and grey of the December lagoon. This is a dream for photographers and a good dose of happiness on a cool day. Venice’s weather in December enhances the vibrant colours of Burano.
IV: Practicalities and Parting Advice
Clothes for La Nebbia
To truly enjoy Venice in December, you must come prepared. Venice is for serious, stylish practicality, not flimsy fashion. This is especially important when considering what to wear in Italy in December.
- Waterproof Shoes: As mentioned above, solid waterproof boots are necessary. Leave the fancy shoes at home. The stone steps of the bridges are slippery when the rain is on or the mist is falling.
- Layering: A warm, windproof coat and some thermal layers and accessories (gloves, scarves, woolly hat) will allow you to be outside for hours, whether you are walking or sitting and not catch a chill. Practical advice on what to wear in Italy in December is essential.
- Pack Light: This is critical. Every corner of Venice has stairs and a bridge. You will have to drag your trolley up and down an endless number of stairways. Pack light, and your back will thank you.
My Final, Loving Decision
Venice in December is a strange experience of being peaceful, and yet feeling so festive; being cold, and yet feeling so warm. It is the city being the most real, the most romantic, and the friendliest. The crowds have disappeared, and so has the real soul of the city, ancient, tough and magnificently sublime. The lack of crowds is a huge bonus to the Venice weather in December.
What a gift to experience the city like this, wandering around empty streets and experiencing a much more personal and direct relationship with its history. And if you’re dreaming of a holiday to Venice that feels magical and surprisingly wallet-friendly, December offers that perfect low-cost charm. Flights and stays tend to come down in price during winter, giving the whole trip a much more relaxed, budget-savvy feel.
This is where Low Cost Vibes fits naturally into your planning, helping you find affordable ways to enjoy Venice at its most atmospheric, without sacrificing comfort or experience.
So go, buy that warm one. Pack your comfiest shoes for walking. And come and discover the true magic of Venezia. Don’t forget to check out the Venice Christmas Markets and prepare for a unique Venice New Year’s Eve celebration!
As the lovely author G.K. Chesterton wrote,
The traveller sees what he sees. The tourist sees what he came to see.
Dear travellers, you will see Venice in December. And you will be forever glad that you did. Buon viaggio! May your December be festive. For those staying for the end of the year, Venice New Year’s Eve is a spectacular event. Be sure to check the dates for the Venice Christmas Markets near the Rialto or in Campo San Polo.
FAQs about Venice in December
Go in December, the silent, undiscovered season.
The possible presence of Acqua Alta (high water).
Waterproof boots (an absolute necessity).
At Campo Santo Stefano.
Bacari (wine bars) and cichéti (snacks).
